Jiu Zhai Gou National Park

The National Tourism bureau calls this park a "Fairy Land." Walking under green lichen clad forests and past the depths of blue-green pools, it's not hard imagine elves hidding under the reeds and tip-toeing across woody stems.

Since I first came to this park in 2000, tourism has skyrocketed to 20,000 people per day during peak season (spring to autumn). But the awesome wilderness that gives JiuZhaiGou it's name is relatively unafected. Even the old Tibetan family I stayed with on my first visit are still living in the same house with the same hand painted Buddhist images across the walls. Of course they've changed a little, we all have. I noticed their daughters have grown up, their old prayer drum has been traded in for a colour TV, and they now have space in the kitchen to seat 20 guests. Jo and I stayed for three nights, and shared the boardwalks with no-one. The few tourists there were huddled onto minibusses that zipped up the one road, stopping for 10 minutes here and there for guests to take memories.

Semi-submerged trunks of broad leafs and conifers
growing out of the river bed add to this valley's uniqueness.

These crystal blue pools are surrounded by fiery
red leaves in autumn.

It was well below zero C. every night, and never crept
far above during the day.

Garibaldi?

Self-portrait of elves.